Havasupai Falls

 

My dad and I got to go to Havasupai Falls last week. We spent 3 days and 2 nights in the canyon. This has been on my bucket list for a very long time, and I am so happy that timing worked out! We were lucky enough to snag the permits for this year. I heard that they sold out for the entire year in the first two hours! If you’re asking yourself: Hey, how do I go about planning a trip here? Permits? Etc? I will cover all of that in this blog post.

So permits….every year, permits are released for Havasupai. They release 250 spots at the campground every day. They have the made process of getting permits slightly easier in that there is an online portal! Every year on February 2^nd, they release these permits. Luckily, I had my dad helping me on his computer when the permits were released. He was actually the one who got through to the page. I kept getting a “please refresh” page. I was honestly convinced that I was not going to get a permit, and even if I did I was not really thinking I would get the exact dates that I wanted! Spring time is always the busiest for me. Typically, we have a ton of golf tournaments close to spring break, but this year we had one right before and one right after. That left me with about 1 week of wiggle room when it came to picking dates. My dad and mom hiked to Havasupai 30 years ago, but when I brought up the idea my dad was on board. I’d like to note as well—permits are not cheap. They aren’t expensive compared to what you’d pay for a guided tour to Havasupai but they’re still not cheap. Be prepared to shell out some $$$ and you also need to pay for everything up front. It’s non-refundable and non-transferable. The main name on the reservation has to be there to check in, the other people on the reservation don’t really matter as much. If you are planning to book, make sure the lead person is going to go. Otherwise it could be a headache.

            So now.. hopefully you got your permits!! Or you’re planning to try and get permits for next year! Yay! Now, you need to plan. Honestly, planning can be kind of tough. In fact, if I was not preparing for my big PCT hike this summer, the process could have easily been overwhelming. So remember, unless you’re using the mules to take your stuff down—you will be carrying everything. This means everything. When my dad and I went down we definitely saw some large packs, and people carrying bits and pieces of equipment in their hands because it did not fit in their bags. It’s so important to pack smart for this trip, and to minimize the weight. Yeah, I definitely think you can bring some luxuries (I sure did!) but you also need to make sure that whatever you bring, you’re going to end up using. Make the weight worth it! For example: my dad and I shared my two-person tent. My tent is the Big Agnus Fly Creek UL2. This little tent weighs only about 2 lbs when packed. Now, I’m not saying that you need to pack a light weight tent or even a tiny tent like mine but think about the weight of the tent! I’ve seen a ton of tents that weigh upwards of 10 lbs! That’s a lot of weight just for shelter over your head. Honestly, I’d aim for a tent that’s closer to 5 or 6 lbs, if you're going to share! The lighter ones can be expensive, so it’s a good investment if you’re going to use it. Another thing you’ll want to think about are sleeping bags! Honestly? Ebay is a great place to find some fantastic deals on sleeping bags! If you’re going to Havasupai in the summer you won’t need a summer warm sleeping bag (maybe a temperature rating of 30, or 40). When my dad and I went, it was really cold and I was happy to have my 15 degree down sleeping bag. I was perfectly content with my sleeping bag! REI has some great deals going all year on sleeping bag, again I’d pay some attention to weight (I’d aim for anything around 2-3 lbs).

To give some perspective, I loaded up my Osprey Exos 58 with all my stuff and I was around 33 lbs. I had luxury items like a book, extra clothing, 4 liters of water, a 3 lb bear canister for food storage, and I was holding allll the food for my dad and I. Honestly, I could have cut that weight down easilyyyyy. But I wanted to bring some of my Serengetee t-shirts, and other stuff! I’ve been training with my dad with a heavy pack so honestly 33 lbs was nothing. I will say, bring something to put your food in, and to hang it from it a tree (rope). We brought a bear canister because that keeps the critters out of the stuff. Did we really need the bear canister? No. So I’d suggest bringing some type of bag to hang your trash and food in. You hang it from a tree, away from your camp site! We didn’t have any problems. On that note, do not eat in your tent. I know… it’s so tempting, so convenient. But don’t do it. Unless you want big ol’ holes in your tent from the squirrels trying to get in! Seriously, they have amazing noses and are persistent!

So some tips:

1.     Pack what you need, but try to minimize the extras. Remember, whatever you bring you’re going to have to carry in and out!

2.     Please please please bring enough water! My dad and I went in the beginning of March and it was relatively cool, but the summer months will be brutal. Bring enough water.

3.     The hike into Supai, and then the campground is 10 miles. The hike in is all downhill. Which means the hike out, is uphill. That hike out is seriously no joke. If you don’t think you’re in that great of shape or think you can carry your pack out—use the mules. Seriously. I’m in pretty good hiking shape and have carried large packs, and that hike out in March was rough. I can’t image doing that hike out in the summer heat. So if you go in summer, start super early. The hardest part of the hike are the last two miles. It’s straight up hill, with a ton of switch backs. No joke. Again—re-emphasizing the water. We actually gave a few liters of water to some girls while we were hiking out because they had run out of water! They had just started the switch backs. Please be smart!

4.     Bring something to hang your food from like string. There are a ton of trees all around the campsite to hang food. There is a spigot where you can get water from which is located at the beginning of the campsite. Only get water from here. Do not drink the river water, no matter how tempting it is.

5.     Pack a day pack. Do not bring your entire pack down to Mooney Falls and then onto Beaver Falls. The hike down to Mooney is sketchy, so make sure you only do this hike during the day and make sure to go slow. The rocks can be slippery, and wet due to the waterfall mist. Take your time, it’s not going anywhere.

6.     Trekking poles-I’d recommend these. Especially if you’re going to carry all of your equipment in and out of the canyon. Honestly, they are so helpful! They help to distribute the weight, and are helpful when going uphill. I can’t tell you how many times I accidently tripped, and the poles saved me from eating it.

7.     When you think you’ve reached Beaver Falls, keep going. You will have to do quite a few river crossings (some even up to chest level). Bring some comfortable water shoes. Wear your hiking boots to climb down from Mooney, but switch into the water shoes for the rest of the hike. Trust me—you don’t want wet feet for the rest of the trip!

8.     There are about 4 bathrooms set up throughout the campsite. I’d recommend camping somewhere close to a bathroom, but don’t camp too close (for good reason). There are a ton of little bridges over the river there that you won’t want to be navigating when it’s pitch black outside when you need to pee. I doubt you want to take a night swim.

9.     Food- My dad and I packed a variety of different food. We brought my little cook stove (Jet Boil Flash) which worked wonders. We used this trip as a training trip so we packed different types of dehydrated foods so we could see if we liked them. We went with Mountain House. I honestly really like mountain house! You just boil a few cups of water, add it to the packet and then wait 5-10 minutes.. and boom, you got yourself a meal. I’d recommend the Teriyaki Chicken, and chicken and dumpling flavors. I’ve also had the eggs with bacon, and breakfast skillet. I actually opted for a cold breakfast (Cliff Bars) but I’d definitely eat those breakfast Mountain House flavors. I also brought along this new type of pasta. It’s already cooked, so I just threw it into the boiling water and it was ready to go. My dad stirred in some soup packets and we had some very tasty vegetable noodle soup for lunch one day. On another note with food—in the village there is 1 restaurant. It’s decently priced, and the food is good! We stopped there our first day, before hiking 2 more miles into the campground. So you don’t want to pack so much food, I’d recommend stopping in there for lunch that first day!

10.  Take lots of photos and have an incredible time! Havasupai is beautiful.

Lastly, if you’re new to backpacking or hiking don’t be intimidated by this. I mean I’d obviously train a little bit so you’re not dying on the hike in or the hike out, but don’t be intimidated. It’s SO worth it. Take your time, plan your trip and enjoy it! If you ever have any questions, just message me or email me! I’d be happy to share more of my experience! (gschian@yahoo.com)